We are underway northbound in the ICW, having left the Titusville Municipal Marina this morning, where we docked for a full week so that we could fly to the wedding of our friends Tim and Crisálida in the Dominican Republic. I am sad to report that we missed the wedding, and therein lies a tale. The last time I felt this way was 2008, when we traveled to DC to attend an historic presidential inauguration, tickets in hand, but were stopped cold by the Purple Tunnel of Doom (Google it; our own story is here).
Today's run is mostly a long, straight slog through the Mosquito Lagoon, which affords me the opportunity to write sporadically. I have much to report, so I will start at the beginning, two weeks ago when we were still anchored in Palm Beach.
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| Dinner on the deck at Chucks, where Vector dominates the view. We were disappointed happy hour ended at 5, even though the web site said 6. |
Tuesday morning I had hoped to run ashore in West Palm for bagels at the new shop that has opened since our last visit. But I was still feeling pretty crummy with the remains of a head cold, and instead we just decked the tender. We weighed anchor at the end of the ebb for a fair tide part of the way to Hobe Sound. The ICW at Jupiter Inlet was recently dredged and we had an easy run all the way to Conch Bar, where we dropped the hook (map) so we could dinghy to Tiki 52 for dinner, which was pretty good. They seated us out of the line of fire of the live music, which was pretty mellow anyway.
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| These two sailboats were anchored near us. Fellow mariners will recognize that neither is legally lit. We see this kind of thing all the time in Florida. |
Wednesday I woke up feeling crummy yet again, and we made the five-hour run to Fort Pierce with mostly fair tide. We dropped the hook on the north side of Causeway Island, just off the ship channel. Our first attempt had us in a weird eddy and we moved to our usual spot (map). We tendered over to Chuck's, at their very shallow and somewhat beat-up dock, for dinner. We found the food overpriced and just OK, buy hey, they have a dock. We stretched our legs a bit after dinner.
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| Eau Gallie Yacht Clubs was replanting their seasonal flower bed while we were there. |
In the morning we weighed anchor to make the 0900 opening of the Fort Pierce North Bridge. The replacement high bridge is very nearly complete and I expect this was our last ever opening for this drawbridge. Today was a long day's run to the Eau Gallie Yacht Club in Indian Harbour Beach, where we were tied up by 4:30 (map). We would have loved to have stopped in Vero Beach to connect with our friends there, but with a lingering head cold that was not a good idea.
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| Cheers from Pub Americana, Cocoa Village. |
We really like this club and their casual poolside bistro, but we really needed a walk, and a quick stop at Publix, and so on this occasion we went instead to long-time favorite PizzaVola. After dinner we strolled over to the nearby massage joint and got a half hour each of much-needed back and neck work before swinging by Publix on our way back. One might question the wisdom of schlepping a backpack full of beer and groceries a half mile right after a massage, but such is the nature of cruising errands.
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| Vector in Cocoa. We're a lot closer this time, just outside the cable area. |
The yacht club is just a day's run from Titusville, and we were now two days early, which is how we like it. A good thing, because I was still coughing and congested Friday morning, marking an unusual full week since I had come down with this crud. We made it a leisurely morning, and I walked down to Ross to see if I could find better shoes for the wedding (no dice), and then spent a half hour in the pool before we dropped lines.
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| I ran into this classic car rally strolling around town. |
We made it a very short day to Cocoa, where we dropped the hook in a familiar spot (map). At dinner time we tendered ashore, tied to the seawall (it seems clear they will never rebuild the dinghy dock), and walked over to Pub Americana for dinner. The town was pretty quiet, unlike our last visit during the holiday boat parade.
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| It was quite warm, and this nice waterfront splash park was very popular. |
Just three hours from Titusville, and with nothing in between, we opted to just spend a second night right there in Cocoa. I felt mostly recovered from my cold, albeit with a lingering cough, but I was grateful for a full day off. In hindsight, I should maybe have taken some time to post here, but instead I puttered around the house in the morning, and went for my longest walk since coming down with the crud in the afternoon. We had dinner at Bugnutty Brewing, a small-batch craft house where the house beers were quite good.
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| Bugnutty Brewing. Uno at every table. |
Sunday was the start of our marina reservation, and with a very calm day, we stopped the dinghy mid-lift so I could scrape some barnacles we had accumulated in the Lake Worth Lagoon before setting it on deck. As I was making my log entry and starting the engine to get underway, we noted that we had not run the generator since arriving, for the first time ever for a two-night stay. I'll need to gather some figures and do a post here on how our new solar is working out, now that we have some actual experience.
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| Also at Bugnutty. I decided that pee is fungible; I left some that I bought elsewhere, but took some of what I bought with me. |
Adverse current made it a full three hour cruise to Titusville, but it was nearly dead calm when we arrived at 2pm, making it easy to back into our slip (map). The short finger pier had a weird arrangement of fat pilings with vertical cleats, and while leaning over the gunwale to catch the midships piling and cleat, Louise let out a yelp. Evidently she pulled a muscle or maybe even bruised a rib, and now a full week later she is still in a great deal of pain and with some limited mobility.
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| This matching railing section welded in place where the dinghy dock ramp used to be speaks volumes about the future of the dinghy dock. |
The main engine oil was due for change, which is best done with the engine still warm, and the marina had an oil recycling station. So after giving the engine room an hour or so to cool down to something less hellish, I went down and changed the oil and filter. I cleaned things up just enough to be able to start up in an emergency, leaving most of the cleanup for the next day.
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| Ol' cap'n Ed is spinning in his grave. His transient dock has now been closed longer than it was open. |
The calm had it excessively hot outside, and we opted to leave the scooters on deck until the cool of the evening. The closest joint in walking distance, ironically, is Pier 220 out on the causeway, where we dine pretty much every time we anchor here. But the food is good and they always have a few beers on tap. After dinner we offloaded the scooters, tricky with a very narrow finger pier encroached upon by big pilings. We knew it would be way too windy to want to offload them Monday.
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| Sunrise over Cocoa Beach and Merritt Island. I was up before dawn to catch the Blue Origin New Glenn launch. |
A week at this marina was less expensive than the five days we actually needed, and we were very glad to have a full extra day to settle in and get things done before our flight Tuesday morning. With a full week booked, we had our mail forwarded here and we both had numerous Amazon and other orders en route to the marina, a good address for deliveries. Monday was mail call, and I also cleaned up the engine room and recycled the used oil and filters. I deployed our mylar bird deterrents for our absence, and we rode out to Walgreens, where I needed to pick up a script before we left. We ate at Kelsey's Pizzeria right next door, which was quite good. We had our bags packed and the boat all secured before we turned in early for an early morning flight.
Tuesday was the big day, and we were up early enough to have a full cup of coffee in us before our pre-scheduled Uber pickup. I opened the Uber app ten minutes before pickup, and was relieved to see it predicting arrival at the Orlando airport seven minutes ahead of schedule, although with no driver yet assigned. We buttoned everything up, I put on my sport coat, and we started walking down the dock toward the pickup point at the marina office.
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| Vector tucked in at Titusville Marina. |
We were almost to the end of the dock when my phone buzzed, just two minutes from the scheduled pickup time. It was Uber, telling me our ride was canceled. The screen said "we're sorry to have let you down" or something like that; in hindsight I am sorry I did not take a screen shot, but frankly, I was just stunned. We kept walking toward the office.
I immediately pulled up Lyft, which tried valiantly for about 12 minutes to find us a ride (stand by, we're working on it). Louise, meanwhile, pulled Uber up on her phone, but all the options they were giving her were 40 minutes out. After Lyft finally gave up and declined, I went back to Uber on my phone, and this time they said we could have a driver in 15 minutes. For $250, vs. the $80 I had pre-booked. With no other options I clicked through; there are no taxi or limo services in Titusville open at 4:30am.
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| Space Shuttle monument, Space View Park. |
The arrival time kept getting later, and as the minutes ticked away we did the math: The TSA line at 5:30, our planned arrival, is about ten minutes, but by 6:15 it's a half hour, and even doing the OJ Simpson (if it's even politically correct to still say that, or if any of our readers remember it), there was no way we were going to make the gate before they closed the aircraft door. I clicked "cancel" on the $250 Uber ride just two minutes before his arrival. Dejected and frustrated, we walked back to the boat.
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| Apollo Monument. |
I spent the next fifteen minutes on the phone with American Airlines. Our tickets were non-refundable, but fully changeable, and with the wedding not until Wednesday evening I held out a glimmer of hope. However, there is only one daily flight from Miami to Santiago de los Caballeros, and Wednesday's flight was already sold out. The agent at the American call center went out of her way to explore all the options, but there was just no way to get there by Wednesday evening. Reluctantly, I asked her to cancel our reservations, and each of us now has a flight credit that we have to use within a year.
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| Gemini Monument, Gemini Park. |
I broke the news to our friends, who were very understanding and supportive. And then I went and ranted about it on social media. There's really nothing else I could do; Uber's TOS does not allow any remedy. Call it a hard lesson learned: the kinds of places that are far enough from major metro areas to have decent marina rates may also be far enough that the gig economy does not function well. We've pre-booked Uber rides for early morning flights maybe a dozen times with no issues, most recently in Lantana and Lake Worth beach, and we'd become complacent. For this occasion, with no backup flight options and a 45-minute ride from the boonies, I should have booked an actual limo service.
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| Mercury Monument. |
And there we were, at 5:30am, looking at another five nights in Titusville. We likely could have converted our stay to the two nights we'd already spent, and continued moving along. But it would not have saved a lot of money, and we still had packages scheduled to arrive throughout the week from Amazon and other vendors. We just chalked it up to first-world yacht problems and girded ourselves for a week at the Titusville Marina. At least we already had the scooters on the ground.
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| Hardware Store Brewing. |
We did made good use of the next five days, at least. I went and visited with friends Bob and Ann on their sailboat. And one of my Amazon deliveries contained the parts I needed to replace the failed check valve in the fuel transfer system, and having them in hand let me see they were inadequate (Amazon plumbing parts are always a crap shoot) in plenty of time to re-order what I needed from McMaster-Carr. The check valve is now replaced, and I managed to do it with a minimal amount of diesel spilled.
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| New check valve in place. |
Another Amazon purchase was a new vacuum gauge for the generator fuel filter, but after I got the old one out I was able to get it working again and so I just re-installed it. The new one is on its way back. A new battery arrived for the crane scale and that's now working again (I had to jury-rig it to weigh our fire bottle); this was an item that Amazon would not deliver to a locker and so we needed a marina or similar address.
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| Breakfast of champions. We were using the box for storage but it outlived its usefulness and I had to snap this photo on its way to recycling. |
I replaced all the mild steel screws on our otherwise weatherproof aluminum deck chairs with stainless items, and in a last-minute scramble, the cheap junk we've been using for a monitor on the chart computer quit entirely two days before our planned departure, and I was able to get a replacement overnight and installed it yesterday. It was a different "brand" but turned out to be entirely identical to the one it replaced. At least I can read it with my polarized glasses on.
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| There's not much to this monitor, and certainly nothing repairable inside. |
I ordered a travel router so that we can use our Starlink, which right now is integrated into the very chatty boat-wide network, on the pay-per-GB offshore plan without every device in the boat sending traffic over it and running up the bill. This was on my "next offshore trip" shopping list, but it moved up due to the chaos in the router market caused by the current administration's ban on foreign-made routers. I spent some time setting that up and testing it with our gear.
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| Playalinda Beach with Launch Complex 39B in the background. One of the least crowded but nicest beaches in the state. |
Lots of minor projects and general boat maintenance rounded out the list. I also rode over to the urgent care one morning, when my persistent cough had cross the two-week mark. While it had seemed to me to be an endless follow-on from the crud I got on the plane ride to Newark, the clinic felt it was likely allergies, and they prescribed some meds to get me back on course.
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| "I didn't bring a suit" is no excuse. Kudos to the NPS. |
On the dining front we had our post-cancellation consolation dinner at long-time favorite El Leoncito, and we tried the Hardware Store Brewery, with lots of nice drafts but basically just cold sandwiches on the dinner menu, located in a former hardware store right downtown. We also tried upscale Italian venue Vine & Olive, which was decent, although next time we will sit in the more pleasant bar area, and last night we ended up right back at Pier 220 when friends Erin & Chris aboard Barefeet, fresh from the Bahamas, came through town and dropped the hook. We all had a mad scramble to beat some incoming rain after dinner.
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| All the parking areas have these nice access boardwalks. It's inside a national park so you need a pass or to pay the entrance fee. |
I tried to walk a little each day, and yesterday, with all the projects behind me and feeling a little better, I rode my scooter out past the Kennedy Space Center to Playalinda Beach within the Canaveral National Seashore. On my way back I stopped off at Hardware Store Brewery to fill my growler before returning home to board the scooters.
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| The brew pub is a real locals hangout, and locals here are in the rocket business. This model of the Space Launch System (new moon rocket) is prominent. |
Yesterday we also had a visit from the pump-out boat, and I recommissioned the fuel transfer system after having given the pipe dope plenty of time to cure. By the end of the evening we had the boat in seaworthy trim and we were all set to get underway this morning.
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| I snapped this so I could have a look at the rebuilt dock in New Smyrna Beach later when I was not driving. I inadvertently captured the incoming storm that was about to unleash on the weekend crowd. |
Update: We are anchored in a familiar spot in Inlet Harbor, near the Ponce de Leon inlet (map). I had to stop typing as we got closer to New Smyrna Beach and the associated weekend traffic. We had a fair current for the last third of the Mosquito Lagoon, and by pushing a little we were able to make the 2pm opening of the George Musson Bridge, just as the heavens opened and the wind picked up to 25 knots. The sudden (but not unexpected) storm had dozens of small boats racing past us for cover, having been out enjoying the sandbars or maybe the offshore fishing. When we passed the boat ramp a short time later there were a dozen boats waiting for the ramp.
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| These die-hards were still on the sand bar when we dropped the hook. They're the smart ones, who knew if they bailed that they would not make it back before the storm passed. |
We arrived to find Barefeet already here, and we made plans to meet Erin and Chris ashore for dinner at Off The Hook, which has a courtesy dock. Dinner was very good, as was the company, and while they will leave us in the dust tomorrow, we will see them again in Jacksonville in about a week. Tomorrow we should be at the Halifax River Yacht Club in Daytona.
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| Sunset from our anchorage, mostly obscured by a storm over Sanford. That's Barefeet off to the right. |
The universe sometimes has a way of forcing you to put things in perspective. While I was typing this post we got word that one of our friends lost the tip of his finger to a freak accident while docking their boat. Fortunately they were mostly docked and so he was rushed to the hospital where they've sewed it back on, and I understand the prognosis is good. It makes all of our first-world yacht problems seem insignificant by comparison and reminds us that good health is our biggest blessing. Our hearts are with him as he recovers.




























































